I usually complete a painting in one day so I don't  worry about drying time too much.   If you need to extend the drying time, Sun thickened Linseed oil will work like Andrew Taylor says.  If you want to shorten the drying time.. I use Winsor Newton Liquin mixed with my oils (as a medium).  I also use Liquin when I re-paint a painting.  It brings the color back to life and the fresh paint you put on will match the old paint to a closer degree.  

I don't glaze rocks (or anything for that matter)... If you hit the value just right -- that will give it the luminosity it needs.  Shadows in rocks are lighter and have much more color variation in them than you might think.

Underpainting with a warm reddish grayed color works best for me in a landscape.  VERY thin transparent paint.  Look at the "How To" articles, the progression of a painting.

 Don Finkeldei

Hi Michael

There are several methods. A traditional one is 'Sun-thickned linseed  oil with maybe a small addition of Dammar varnish' I seem to remember. Sun-thickned oil is great. One has to be careful the paint  doesn't become too oily shiny.

Another drier we use is a product call  'Liquin', an alcoyd I think. I mix a lillte into each reservoir.

Otherwise I use a "Cobalt drier" I bought in Spain, (never seen it on sale in the UK) A  very small amount added to my turpentine thinners and same in the linseed oil reservoir.

 Another thick paste is "LUCAS MEDIUM  No5".  It is clear colour and makes the paint go futher and speeds drying well, but  it is thick, a similar texture to the pain. You can mx it 1:1

Hope that is  a help. If you need instructions on sun thickened oil let me know.

Regards

Andrew Taylor

Hi

 I have bought the Tim Deibler dvd and like it but I really love the way DOn and Scott CHristensen work - the colours are magical and I llike the more realistic approach as opposed to Tim Deibler.  I would like to ask many questions about drying time, underpainting involved and glazing for rocks (is this really necessary to get that luminocity) - do I need to use alkud galzing gel or any other meduim.  I have lots of Qs - would it be okay to post these ?

Ta

Michael Murphy - a great admirer of your work

A jpg image (joint photographic project) type of image is purposely degraded (compressed) so that it's kilobyte size is small enough to send via email or place on a web page so the image doesn't take forever to load.  A jpeg image is usually low resolution  (number of pixels in an inch) and usually 72 pixlels/inch (because that's the resolution of computer monitors)

A tiff image is a format for printing.  You can't put tiff images on a website and it's not advisable to send via email because they are not compressed and very large (kilobyte size).  They are also higher in resolution (usually 300 to 600 pixels per inch) so that when they are printed, they are sharp and clear.

You can make either type of format (jpeg or tiff) out of a camera image using photoshop or other image software.  All computers come one.  On a Windows machine, it's called "Paint" and it's in the accessories folder of programs.  I'm not sure what it is on a mac.  Photoshop CE or Photoshop elements is the best.  For a more complete explaination, read the articles  about digital imaging and photography How To Articles .

You might be trying to modify greens by using your brush and strong tube paint.  Use a palate knife and mix on your palate.  Use grays to find the value you need first.  Then modify the color. 

If you use a tube gray, like paynes gray, or mix your own gray  (2parts ultramarine blue, one part cad yellow, and one part cad red) on your palate, you'll find that using the neutral gray with your tube green  (brought up in value by white if you need higher values)  will first let you arrive at the value and pigment intenisty you need.  Then you can modify the color by using a little of the primaries (red, yellow, blue)  to get the  exact color you need. 

This is the technique that Scott Christensen uses. I use it.   It works.

See my palate and the grays I mix,  click on  Paint, Brushes and mediums. 

Also, It's a good idea to mix the modeling types of light for similar objects on the palate before applying paint to the canvas.  For instance, if you're mixing tree colors/values, Do it on your palate first. Mix the light (where the sun shines) , shadow (Where the sun doesn't shine), transition (the transition between light and shadow) and accents (darkest and lightest accents in the tree - just a few needed) on your palate first. 

Arrive at what you need first (on the palate),  then apply the paint to canvas.  You'll need to repaint less -- modifying paint on your canvas is harder to do than trying to get it right before you apply the paint.

I seem to spend more time on mixing greens than I have before. Do you have some kind of exercise that would simplify the task of mixing greens in landscape painting?

Greetings,

If you have questions, answers or helpful information about Marketing or Sales, you can post your new topics on the previous page, or reply to existing topics here (on this page).

Don Finkeldei

Greetings,

If you have questions, answers or helpful information about website applications or digital imaging,  you can post your new topics on the previous page, or reply to existing topics here.

Don Finkeldei, owner and administrator of this site is an expert in all phases of website applications, digital imaging, Photoshop and cameras.  He will try to answer all your questions.

Thanks, Don Finkeldei

Greetings,

If you have questions, answers or helpful information about Techniques and/or Materials, you can post your new topics on the previous page,  or reply to existing topics here (on this page).

Don Finkeldei

Greetings,

If you have questions, answers or helpful information about painting theory, you can post your new topics on the previous page,  or reply to existing topics here (on this page).  

Don Finkeldei